The Insider’s Guide to Lake Como
Italy’s deepest lake is the center point of a vibrant, elegant and stunningly beautiful part of Northern Italy. Lake Como isn’t necessarily where you’d go to find a bustling nightlife nor will you be assaulted by tons of touristy tchotchkes that plague other popular parts of Italy. There’s still a slight air of refinement to the place and the deep waters of the vast lake will have you feeling reflective and romantic. I’ve been lucky enough to have experienced Lake Como from the perspective of their very insular locals, having spent quality time in the hills of Brunate, a hidden villa in Faggeto Lario, and as a guest at The Mandarin Oriental in Blevio. Here’s my take on how to experience the jewel of Italy’s Lombardia region.
Passalacqua by @stuartcantorphotography
Know Before You Go
The shape of Lago di Como is that of an upside down Y that has two branches that join at Bellagio. Stay on either side of the left branch which contains towns such as Cernobbio, Blevio, Tremezzo and Nesso. Even on a boat tour you won’t really need to go beyond far beyond Bellagio. Como is busier than the other towns and probably not where I would stay.
Think about how you plan to get around. Some of the most enchanting spots are only accessible by boat while others may be scattered on the opposite side of the lake that you’re staying on. You can take pricey taxis by land, pricey water taxis or rent a car. If you choose a car rental prepare yourself for some narrow, bendy “two-lane” roads up and down hills. The major hotels can help you with transportation…at a price.
Where to Stay:
As always if you can’t quite stay at one of these places, you should still visit them for a meal or aperitivo. Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Villa D’este have spectacular grounds that are worth touring. The Mandarin Oriental spa is fantastic and has wonderful lakeside restaurant options.
The classics: Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Villa d’Este.
Sleek and gorgeous gem: The Mandarin Oriental
Modern Luxury: Il Sereno
Villa Living: Villa Lario and Passalacqua
@ghtlakecomo
@ghtlakecomo
Where to Eat
It’s all about the Lake. You either want to be on it or enjoying unobstructed views of it while you dine on delicious food.
The Grill at Villa d’Este in Cernobbio is a favorite for the lake views and buttoned up service. It’s perfect for lunch or an aperitivo.
La Terrazza Gaultiero Marchesi at Grand Hotel Tremezzo is supremely elegant, boasting views of the Lake and their famous pool.
While The Mandarin Oriental does have a more refined restaurant option called L’aria, I prefer their more casual CO.MO Bar & Bistrot.
Harry’s Bar in Cernobbio.
Restaurant de l’hotel Florence in Bellagio for a meal under wisteria and the requisite lake view.
Ristorante Alle Darsene di Loppia in Bellagio. Dine on the tiny port of Loppia, right at the entrance of Villa Melzi.
Cernobbio
Top Secret Restaurants:
Trattoria del Porto
A hidden gem with killer views in a town called Careno, right next to Nesso. The family-run restaurant serves an authentic and traditional five course menu. It’s best accessed by boat and mostly known to locals.
Insider tip: Try to book (in advance!) the one secret table right on the lake. If it’s taken, you’ll still be happy on their terrace.
Isola Comacina
You’ll need a boat to access this little Island which has one restaurant, La Tirlindana.
Insider tip: Every year all the Lake Como locals take their small boats to watch fireworks for the Festival of San Giovanni on June 25th.
Festive Fun:
Villa D’este throws an annual American independence Day Gala on July 4th as well as a Bastille Day Gala on July 14th with a spectacular fireworks show.
The Grill at Villa d’Este
Restaurant de l’hotel Florence Image by @pinkines
Boat Tour
It’s a must that you tour the lake by boat (hopefully a Riva Aquarama) with a stop for lunch at one of the grand hotels or secret spots mentioned above. Your captain will no doubt point out the villas of George Clooney and the late Gianni Versace, but I happen to love the pretty pinkness of Villa Pizzo, one of the oldest properties on Lake Como. The pièce de résistance is of course Villa La Cassinella, made famous by the Slim Aarons photograph. The private estate accommodates 17 guests and is only accessible if booked out in its entirety. So take it in by boat.
Images of Villa La Cassinella by Slim Aarons, @viatolila and @lago_di_como_offical
Villas and Gardens
The famous Villa del Balbianelo in Lenno for sumptuous gardens and lake views is a must.
Villa Melzi d’Eril in Bellagio after a nice lunch and walk around the town.
Villa Erba in Cernobbio. Be sure to stroll into the center of town for some gelato or lunch at Harry’s Bar by the lake.
The gardens of Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio.
Villa Monastero in Varenna also gives you a good opportunity to explore the town.
Images of Villa Balbianelo above
Brunate
You can drive or take the funicular from Como up to the old aristo town of Brunate which sits 700 metres above sea level and has wonderful greenery for walks and, you guessed it, killer views of the Lake, the Alps and the historic city center.
Villa Melzi d’Eril in Bellagio