The Insider’s Guide: 48 Hours in Naples
Image of Parco Sommerso di Gaiola by @naplesismuchmore
“Naples is curiously chaotic…it’s alive, it’s vibrant, it’s a little bit dirty, it’s busy, and I loved it. ”
What’s the first thing that you think of when Naples is mentioned? Mafia? Pizza? Crowded chaotic streets? You might be forgiven for that as Naples has gotten a bad rap and not done much to salvage its rep. For most, Naples is the city you fly into on your way to the Amalfi Coast. However, the capital of the Campania region is the third-largest municipality in Italy, after Rome and Milan, and just as complicated, sexy, vibrant and worth visiting as the other two.
I honestly can’t believe I’m writing this guide. Having grown up in Nigeria, when I travel I want to be solidly immersed only in the marvelous. I don’t want reality, chaos, loudness, clothes drying from the front of buildings. I want to dream. I’ve noticed lately that having spent so much time in Italy, I’m less enchanted with the sterility and dare-I-say, soullessness of the crowded locales more frequented by tourists. I like authentic Italy. The history, art and food lover in me has been seduced by the culture of Naples, mostly thanks to my husband, Alessandro who is from about one and a half hours south of the city. Most of the words in this guide are his own.
This guide is for the woman who is a bit intimidated by Naples. The woman who has been warned to stay away. The woman who has seen so much of Italy and is looking for even more. This guide is to convince you the next time you’re on your way to Capri, the Amalfi Coast, Ischia and all the other heavily trafficked bastions of merrymaking, to consider giving Naples 48 hours of her time.
Warning** we squeeze a LOT into 48 hours, so if you can…consider giving the city 72!
@naplesismuchmore
Overview:
Naples is a city with a soul and a feast for your senses. The smell of fried food at every corner, constant honking of cars, bed sheets hanging from terraces, the sea, loud locals, rush of scooters whizzing past you, all of this will leave you with no doubt about where you are at any point in time that you’re there. But that is all surface, unintentionally designed to keep the superficial tourist away. Beneath all of the…chaos, is revealed a city of culture, history and art. For example- I can’t think about any other city in the world which has its own peculiar music and theatre tradition. Can you?
This is not the place to be if you value efficiency and speed: so embrace it, walk around, smile at people and don’t be afraid to deviate from the plan and let the heart of the city guide you.
The only restaurants suggested are very traditional and rustic but undoubtedly delicious ones. You can go to fancy spots at home or at the next stop on your travels. Street food is a big aspect of Naples culture: panino napoletano (sandwich with broccoli and sausage ) and fried pizza are classics, so go ahead and indulge while you tour!
When to Go
It gets incredibly hot in the summer time, but Naples is still worth the stop on your way to the seaside. Otherwise autumn is quite nice.
Where to Stay
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Keep it classic. Built in the nineteenth century, this old gal was frequented by royals, Enrico Caruso, Oscar Wilde and many others of that ilk. It’s part of Leading Hotels of the World network and is the only five star hotel on the sea in Naples. It’s not modern and doesn’t want to be. It’s near the Royal Palace, Plebiscito Square and the San Carlo Theatre.
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
The Transportation Situation
Driving in Naples is not for the faint hearted. Prepare to walk and take taxis to the farther locations. Otherwise, the metro functions quite well.
Day 1 Guide:
Morning
A lot has happened beneath the surface of Naples in the past 2400 years. It’s been conquered and conquered and conquered again by the Romans, Byzantines, Lombards, Saracens, French. All of whom left traces of their influence. You can visit “Napoli Sotterranea” (Underground Naples) and immerse yourself in the history of the city from the Greek - Roman theater all the way to the WWII war museum.
From your hotel you need to take a taxi or the metro (around 30 minutes) to Piazza San Gaetano 68 where you will find the entrance marked by white and blue flags saying “Napoli Sotterranea”. You don’t need reservations and tours in English occur at 10AM, 2PM and 6PM, each lasting 2 hours.
Afternoon
You’ll be hungry once you finish the tour and the obvious next thing to do is to enter the temple of Pizza: “L’antica Pizzeria da Michele” which is 10 minutes away (Via Cesare Sersale, 1). Founded in 1870, it is one of the oldest pizzerias in town. It will be easy to make a choice as they have only 2 pizzas to choose from: marinara and margherita. There will be a line but it is worth the wait. Naples people start eating around 1PM so if you get there a bit earlier than that the line should be shorter.
Post Lunch
You are in the historical center of Naples, you’ve just finished your pizza and had another coffee (Naples Coffee is quite legendary. Take it standing up at a bar). Use the rest of your afternoon to visit the many churches or museums in the area and walk around the city:
Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara
Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore
Sansevero Chapel Museum where the famous Vieled Christ is located.
Image of Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore by @panoramilandscape
The marble sculpture, “Modesty”, by Antonio Corradini located at Sansevero Chapel, demonstrates the intricate and difficult work of sculpting translucent veil out of marble.
Dinner
It’s been a long day! You’re hungry again. Below is a list of very traditional, simple and historical places where you can taste authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Also included are some suggestions for the top dishes to taste.
Hosteria Toledo (Vico Giardinetto, 78)
Get the spaghetti “alla poverella”, spaghetti ai pomodorini (cherry tomatoes), vermicelli con le cozze, paccheri ricotta e pomodoro (paccheri pasta with ricotta and tomato), frittura di paranza and pastiera as dessert.
Da Nennella (Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 103/104/105)
An institution since WWII. Get the Pasta e fagioli, spaghetti ai frutti di mare, linguine col polpo, seppie arrosto, genovese, mixed fried fish. Don’t get offended by the “brusque” nature of the waiters - it’s all part of the act.
La locanda Gesu’ Vecchio (Via Giovanni Paladino, 26)
Still traditional, though a bit more upscale.
Day 2 Guide:
Morning
Walk to Piazza Del Plebiscito (a 10 minute walk), visit Palazzo Reale (Royal Place of Naples) have a coffee and a pastry at Gran caffe’ Gambrinus and then visit the marvelous Teatro San Carlo (guided tour at 11:30AM in English for 30 minutes).
Lunch
All within walking distance
A Taverna Do Re Supportico Fondo di Separazione, 2
One of the specialties is spaghettoni alla cetarese con crema di scarola (big spaghetti with anchovies flavor and cream of escarole)
Trattoria Castel Nuovo Piazza Francese 41
Various fried food (fish and meat), pizza but also a lot of dishes based on pasta with fish. To try: Zuppa di frutti di mare e crostacei (seafood and crostaceous soup).
Image by: Øivind Haug
Post-Lunch
You’ve seen underground Naples, now it’s time to see it from the top! Walk 40 minutes (burn off that lunch!) or grab a taxi and go to the Vomero area where you can visit Castel Sant’Elmo , which dates back to 1200 or Belvedere San Martino both boasting breath taking panoramic views of the whole city, Vesuvius, the islands and Matese mountains. You can also visit the Certosa (chartreuse) San Martino which is a former Carthusian monastery and one of the most successful examples of Neapolitan Baroque architecture and art. It offers a wide selection of the art and history of Naples between the 17th and 19th centuries.
If you have still time or as an alternative to Vomero you could visit Capodimonte Museo è Real Bosco an 18th century hunting lodge built by Charles Bourbon also inhabited by the French kings Giuseppe Bonaparte and Gioacchino Murat and the Savoys. You’ll need a taxi to go to Via Miano 2 where it is located. Here you can see the Palace, its wonderful and rich art collection (paintings by Tiziano, Raffaello, Michelangelo and Caravaggio to name a few), the porcelain exposition containing works produced in Naples that are famous worldwide as well as the sumptuous grounds.
Dinner
Surely you’re hungry again! Head to “50 Kalo Di Ciro Salvo”, Piazza Sannazano 201.
It is one of the best pizzas in Italy, You should make a reservation. It is a 30 minute walk from the hotel on the famous lungomare caracciolo (Naples promenade).
Lungomare Caracciolo image by @photographerjean
Honorable Mentions
Shopping
You haven’t even shopped yet!
The neighborhood called Chiaia: Streets Via Gaetano Filangieri for all the big luxury brands Hermes, Bulgari, Gucci, Ferragamo etc.
There’s also a very nice boutique with a great selection called Boutique Galliano on Via Calabritto.
E Marinella is a very prestigious store known mostly for men's neckties.
Maradona and Naples
Football to Naples is very important. Do take a few minutes to stop by Murale Diego Armando Maradona in Via Emanuele de Deo. He is a God in the city
Pompeii
Mount Vesuvius is visible from a lot of the city. An alternative day can have you taking a train from Napoli Centrale station and going to Pompei to spend all day (or half).
Quartier Forcella. Image by @explorer_naples